a11y(darkmode): use a button for the theme toggle (#1335)

Andrew

2024-08-24 4c9e8601504f76dcc3c273ea8ad1862df432b7b4

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{
  "printWidth": 100,
  "quoteProps": "as-needed",
  "trailingComma": "all",
  "tabWidth": 2,
  "semi": false
}